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Wednesday 31 August 2016

Angkor Wat, Dawn to Dusk

 I visited Angkor Wat in March 2005. I took a bus from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. Even though my host advised me to book a taxi the night before my visit to the complex, I opted not to. At 4:30 am the following morning, I walked out to the main road and waved down a tuk-tuk. After bargaining a price for a full day exclusive service, I hopped on the tuk-tuk and got outside the main gate. A few minutes later, I witnessed a photo-perfect sunrise.


It was a very hot day and my driver would have to constantly urge me to visit the sites. The architecture had a strong Hindu temple feel although Buddha statues are everywhere in the complex. Archaeologists from Scandinavian countries were restoring the structures.The biggest difference between an Angkor Wat Buddha head and a "regular" Buddha head is the gentle smile on the Cambodian one as characterized by the sculptured towers of the Bayon.



Another feature that had me awe-struck is the bas-relief walls telling the stories of the battles between the Hindu Gods. The complex warrants a multiple-day visit not just because of its immense size but also the artistic value of the structures. Seldom would visitors find fine detailing even on the exterior walls. I have reasons to believe that the artisans of these structures came from India. Only in Khajuraho and Hampi, India had I witnessed such elaborate embellishments on exterior walls of temples.





My driver took me to a village on the perimeter for lunch. As I sat down with a plate of deep fried fish and rice at a tree-shaded table, a group of elementary school-age children approached me. I asked them why they were not in school. They replied that they already had classes in the morning. Some tried to sell me postcards and souvenirs. But for the most part, they just wanted to practise their English. To my surprise, these kids were very knowledgeable about capital cities all over the world. All the American coins in my pant pockets parted with me at the end of my lunch.

The signature shots of tree roots penetrating into temples of Ta Prohm are on all the promotional materials for Angkor Wat. That part of the complex is a magnificent display of the force of nature. Yet whatever remained standing was so preciously intact. My day ended with watching the sunset with a lot of noisy tourists on top of a temple at Phnom Bakheng. The next morning I took a fast boat back to Phnom Penh.






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