Nicaragua Jan 22 - Feb 14, 2015

After visiting Mexico, Belize, Guatemala and Honduras, I had few expectations for my visit in Nicaragua except to visit some volcanoes, lakes, off-shore islands and colonial cities. Because of the injury on my left knee, I opted to skip a couple tourist attractions near the Honduras/Nicaragua border which has some hilly terrain. I went directly from Tegucigalpa to Managua by Tica Bus.

Unlike the majority of independent travellers, I chose to base in Managua and made day trips to Leon, Granada and Masaya National Park. I spent three days exploring Managua. The old cathedral of Managua was structurally damaged during the 1972 earthquake. The ruins of the old cathedral still have a haunting presence at the historical centre. Managua is a city of nameless streets. The shopping malls, markets and universities are often used as reference points. Another distinguishing feature is the “yellow trees” on major throughways of the capital city.

Granada and Leon are colonial cities that most backpackers use as hubs. The younger and more athletic visitors apparently prefer Leon because it offers more activities such volcano trekking & boarding and surfing. Moreover, I liked Granada more because it is heaven for photographers. The structures are better maintained and the buildings are more colourful. The islet dotted lakefront is simply gorgeous. The streets are wide and clean.

I visited Volcan Masaya which is a low, active volcano. The National Park surrounding the volcano is covered by solidified lava flows. Even though the area is not inhabited by people, the park is filled with unusual flora and fauna. I was very impressed with the informative presentation at the on-site museum.

The journeys between Managua and the Corn Islands were adventurous. To travel on a cargo boat is a romantic notion but it could be overwhelmingly challenging in reality. Captain D took 36 hours to travel from El Rama to Big Corn Island and the Isleno D took only 12 hours to go from Big Corn Island to El Rama. In comparison to the Bay Islands in Honduras, I like the Corn Islands more because they are more remote and less built-up. The odd time you could even witness crabs crossing a street to go back to the ocean.

To finish off my Nicaraguan visit, I stayed in Moyogalpa for nine days. I visited different parts of the island of Ometepe. It is a very peaceful place and there are farms and ranches everywhere on the island. The colour of the water is a murky green because the sediments are constantly stirred up by the currents of the lake water.

From Moyogalpa, I made two day trips to San Juan Del Sur and Rivas. San Juan Del Sur is a small beach town on the Pacific Coast. Its main attraction is the sandy beach. Rivas is a transportation hub in the southern part of Nicaragua. I tried to purchase a new carry-on there and found out that the prices were higher than those in Vancouver, Canada but a 2-piece fried chicken combo complete with fries, coleslaw and a soft drink cost only $3.50 USD.

Unlike Honduras, Nicaragua has always been trying to maintain its national identity separate from external influences such as the States, Spain, etc. Silhouette monuments of its national hero, Augusto Cesar Sandino, are erected throughout the country.

Honduras Jan 2 - 21, 2015.

Copan Ruinas was my first stop in Honduras. It also became my travel base in Honduras by chance. From Copan, I first travelled to San Pedro Sula, the North Coast and the Bay Islands. Then I returned to Copan and visited places in the west. Lastly, I travelled to the south and stayed in the capital city of Tegucigalpa for a few days before exiting the country for Nicaragua. 

The mountain roads in Western Honduras were not easy to traverse; however, I did feel very safe when I was in the “hill country”. I would feel secure enough to eat in a food stall near the town square of Copan Ruinas even after sunset. Around Copan there are several places that you can explore on foot or by bike. I also visited the Moon Jaguar Hot Springs Spa one afternoon. The spa is rather remote and has a serene ambience.

One of my Honduran hosts asked me about my top three favourite places in Honduras. My numero uno favourite place was the Copan Archaeological Park and Museum. Being an art-lover, I was impressed with the carvings, sculptures, artefacts and stellaes in this ancient Mayan city. The replica of the Rosalila Temple enabled me to visualize how glorious the city must have been when it was built. The McCaw birds are a colourful addition to this unique ruins site.

There are two Honduran port cities that have forts to guard off pirates and foreign attacks. I visited one such city, Trujillo which is 3 hours drive east of La Ceiba. Trujillo is my second favourite place in Honduras. Even though it is a Port of Call for many cruise ships and there is a fair size gringo population, the way of life remains simple. Its residents were kind to me when I needed help with my wardrobe malfunction.

Copan Ruinas is my third favourite place. It is a small town that remains unspoiled even though it receives thousands of tourists each year. Amazingly enough, it is also the place where I met my two Guatemalan friends. Several locally owned cafes serve excellent Café Americano. Every evening there are Christian worships and choir singing practices. It is a magical place.

Even though I have ridden on motor boats on open seas before, the tour of Cayos Cochinos had to be the most exciting part of my Honduran visit. Caribbean Sea is pretty rough to sail in at the best of times with waves higher than the boat. The sea is a  beautiful sapphire blue but it is always many shades of turquoise in the lagoons. I had a glimpse of the laid-back lifestyle and the traditional Garifuna way of living, topped off with a deep fried cod and plantain lunch.

My visit to the Museum of National Identity was indeed very educational. Hondurans should be proud of their heritage and try to maintain their culture independent of American influences. It is sad that a large part of the population still lives below the line of poverty. More than half of the clothing stores in large cities are stocked with merchandise from American thrift stores. People drink more carbonated drinks than filtered water. My wish for Hondurans is to have a better educational system, healthier diet, and a bigger middle class.