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Wednesday 18 March 2020

Pakistan, Jan 28 - Feb 16, 2020

According to Wikipedia, The name Pakistan literally means "land of the pure" in Urdu and Persian. It alludes to the word پاک (pāk), meaning "pure" in Persian and Pashto. The suffix ـستان (-stān) is a Persian suffix meaning the place of, and also recalls the synonymous (and cognate) Sanskrit word स्थान (sthāna).

Before I start describing my experience during my nineteen day visit in Pakistan, I would like to present a map of Pakistan. Other than having conflicts with India over Kashmir, Pakistan is generally on good terms with its neighbours - Iran, Afghanistan, India and China. People think of Pakistan as a Taliban stronghold since 911. I saw no evidence of that opinion.

As of March 6th, 2020, the government of Canada has the following travel advisory:
PAKISTAN - AVOID NON-ESSENTIAL TRAVEL
Avoid non-essential travel to Pakistan with exceptions (see below). The security situation is unpredictable. There is a threat of terrorist attacks, kidnapping and sectarian violence.
Regional advisory - Avoid all travel
Avoid all travel to :
- the area within 10 km of all international borders, except the Wagah official border crossing point
- the Kashmir region, including Azad Kashmir and Gilgit-Baltistan
- the province of Balochistan and its capital city, Quetta
- the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province, including Swat, the city of Peshawar, Khyber, North Waziristan and South Waziristan
Safety and security situation
Islamabad - Exercise a high degree of caution
Exercise a high degree of caution in Islamabad due to the threat of terrorism.
Map of Pakistan
In planning my visit, I tried to avoid all the "problematic" areas mentioned in the travel advisory. Fortunately none of the six UNESCO sites in Pakistan is located in any of these regions. 

My e-Visa for Pakistan was literally granted to me at the 11th hour after I shouted at the staff at the Pakistani Embassy in Muscat, Oman and publicly announced on Facebook that I would not be visiting Pakistan ever, on the day prior to my scheduled flight from Muscat to Karachi. If my e-Visa was not sent to me at 2:11 am on Jan 28th, I probably would have missed out on an opportunity to explore a young nation with a very long history.

How do you get around in Pakistan? If you are a driver from the UK or Australia, it would be easy because you can hire a rental car and get to different parts of the country using the extensive network of tolled highways and freeways. Or if you enjoy train travel like I do, trains are a more affordable option, especially during winter time when air-conditioning is not necessary. The least preferred option is the intercity coaches because of their unreliable schedules. If you are flexible, traveling in minibuses and vans would give you ample opportunities to mingle with the locals and save you money. Some young travelers even hitchhiked between cities in Pakistan.

What surprised me was the lack of public buses in urban areas except in Karachi. Tuks-tuks are still the major means of transportation in both cities and towns. There are regular taxis in addition to shared vehicles using cell phone apps such as Uber, Careem, Swvl, etc. It was rather amusing to see elderly men booking Careem rides on their phones which they they barely use 10% of the functions. Technology is playing an important role in their daily life. I recommend that visitors purchase a local SIM card for 200 PKR (1.5 USD). Data rates with different duration periods are very affordable. It would only make your Pakistani visit that much easier.

Get ready to feel like a celebrity when you are visiting touristy places. Pakistani love to take selfies with foreigners. I remember how happy a young mother became when she suddenly took the space next to me outside Badshahi Mosque in Lahore Fort. She totally forgot about her crying baby for a few moments. After taking dozens of pics with her cell phone, I tried to take a selfie using my cell phone and she stopped me. When I promised her not to post it online, she agreed to have one selfie with me. Later someone explained to me that it is not customary for Pakistanis to post their photos on social media. Respect their privacy and do not post photos of people without their permission.
A selfie with my guide at Faisal Mosque in Islamabad
If you are interested in visiting UNESCO sites in Pakistan, be prepared for police escort at all times when you don't have a guide. An armed policeman escorted me the whole morning during my visit to Mohenjo-Daro. Even though many foreigners have visited these sites before, local governments are worried for the safety of the international visitors. I don't think you would be robbed or kidnapped; it is more likely that you could trip over a stone and hurt yourself. Because most of these sites are in rural areas, there are panhandlers especially near the entrance and exit. These panhandlers usually target wealthy local tourists and foreigners.

I only stayed in three cities - Karachi, Islamabad and Lahore. I had to stay in a hotel in Karachi for my first night in Pakistan, and then another night in Larkana during my visit to Mohenjo-Daro. There are no hostels, guesthouses or pensions for the budget travelers. Airbnb has just started in major cities. Hosts are learning the about the hospitality business along the way. In comparison to other Asian countries, Pakistan does not have a plan to handle massive tourism. As it stands, budget travelers are less likely to choose Pakistan because of the much higher accommodation costs.

Having talked about the not-so-appealing points about traveling in Pakistan as an independent traveler, I would highly recommend Pakistan to any adventurous travelers. I can guarantee you that your Pakistani experience would be unique. Even though I did not visit northern parts of Pakistan, I believe their majestic mountains and glaciers could be compared to that of the Rockies in Canada and the mountains in New Zealand from the numerous YouTube videos that I watched. What I am most impressed with Pakistan is the warmth of its people and their sincere desire to connect with the visitors. Often the locals would take the initiative to start a conversation with me just to find out what I think of their country.
The Boyz and I at Takht Bhai Buddhist Ruins

Visit Pakistan, the place of unspoiled beauty, inhabited by people of pure hearts at the crossroads of ancient civilizations before everyone else finds out about this mysterious country.